Ultimate Travel Guide to Sardinia, Italy

When to Visit Sardinia

Although an island in Southern Italy, Sardinia still gets 4 seasons. Neither snow nor freezing temperatures are likely in the winter but that doesn't mean it doesn't get chilly. While winter in Sardinia might be ideal for quiet days and getting a lot of work or relaxation in, if swimming and sunbathing are top of your to-do list, you'll prefer to plan your trip for another time.

The best time to visit Sardinia for typical island fun is any time between May-October, although to be on the safe side, you might want to cut your window from June-September, with June and September as prime time.

I visited Sardinia in June and it was fantastic. We had long sunny days yet beaches almost entirely to ourselves. I heard from friends who visited later in July and August that the crowds did eventually arrive for a true peak season. Even in June though the water was icy cold and only doable to swim in after heating up under the sun.

Just like when deciding the best time to visit Italy in general, the season and even specific month you choose makes a big difference to your trip.

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Where to Base Yourself

After consulting local friends about our trip to Sardinia, they had a lot to say about the north of the island vs. the south of it.

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Northern vs. Southern Sardinia

Our Italian friends were clear in letting us know that Northeast Sardinia is known as the touristic area, with more expensive prices, bougie beach clubs, and more people in general.

The south of the island is more populated with locals who live on Sardinia year round, with most businesses and job opportunities in Cagliari.

The rest of the island, with the exception of a few of the most famous beaches, is less populated, more laidback and offers better prices.

Before I dive into the details on where to base yourself, I want to note that while I'm dividing this section by cities, I don't recommend you stay in the city center but instead in the areas around them. They're the most convenient due to their airports but I do suggest going to Sardinia for nature first and foremost.

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Olbia

Olbia is the biggest city in Northeast Sardinia and home to Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport. This is the airport we chose to arrive at simply due to the cheapest flight prices from Trieste. Because of this, we decided to base ourselves in the countryside outside of Olbia.

Olbia's city center is small but full of shops, restaurants, and a marina.

This area is most well-known because of Costa Smeralda, the stunning coastline that stretches along the entire northeast tip of the island. The beaches here really are beautiful and well worth a visit. I do think though if you're visiting in July or August, these beaches will be the most crowded. If you're searching for a beach club environment, you'll love it.

If you visit in the off-season, or even just as early in June, you won't have to worry about sharing the beaches with too many others and you'll have the stunning views of Tavolara Island to yourself.

📍Looking for a great place to stay in or around Olbia? I recommend:

• Budget Stay: Casa Sacuri: While the room itself is simple yet clean, stay close to beaches and Olbia without having to pay beachfront prices.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Casagliana Suite Resort: This is where my husband and I stayed during our trip to Sardinia. The views, the tranquility, and the location make it a perfect retreat for us.
• Luxury Stay: Bella Darsena Portorotondo: Enjoy more space at this two-bedroom apartment and walking distance to a few beaches on Costa Smeralda.

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Cagliari

As I mentioned above, Cagliari is the biggest city in Sardinia and where most locals live year-round. It has the biggest ferry port and the Cagliari Elmas Airport.

Although a big city by Sardinia standards, it'll feel small after visiting places like Rome, Milan, or Bologna. Still though, it's a good base if you have your sights set on exploring Southern Sardinia.

If you prefer basing yourself in a city for the amenities and doing day trips to the best beaches or hiking trails, Cagliari is a good option for you.

Since less tourists tend to end up in the southern half of the island, you have a better chance of enjoying a quieter trip, although most places near Cagliari will still get some traffic due to the ease of getting there.

📍Looking for a great place to stay in or around Cagliari? I recommend:

• Budget Stay: Il Panoramico Rooms: Located in the small historic center of Cagliari, the rooms are bright, clean, and offer city views.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Eleventh Floor Suites: Situated in the exact center of the city, it's a convenient location to arrive or leave from the airport and to explore the surrounding area.
• Luxury Stay: Villalù - Appartamento Tucano: Traveling with your family or friends? This two-bedroom apartment will give you more space and your own kitchen.

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Alghero

Alghero is a cute beach town on the coast in Northwest Sardinia. Here you'll find the small international airport, Alghero Fertilia Airport. Although the biggest city in the northwest of the island is Sassari, most people prefer Alghero since it's on the coast.

For those that don't want the tourism that Olbia boasts or the size of Cagliari, Alghero is a good choice. The town itself is quite picturesque and has a luxurious vibe to it that most people fall in love with.

Although in Olbia, I recommend staying outside of town near the beaches or in the mountains, in Alghero I would suggest staying in town to take advantage of the charm it offers, while still making day trips to see more of the natural landscape of the island.

📍Looking for a great place to stay in or around Alghero? I recommend:

• Budget Stay: B&B Vecchia Alghero: Situated right in the historic center and a quick walk from the marina, it's the perfect place to stay for those who want to wander the narrow streets of Alghero.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Alghero Locazioni: Stay right on the beach, just north o f Alghero, on the way to La Pietraia.
• Luxury Stay: Calabona's promenade apartment: This 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom apartment is a quick walk to the beach and only a 20-minute walk into Alghero, giving you the best of both worlds.

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La Maddalena

While my other 3 suggestions are recommended mainly because they're easy to get to, La Maddalena is a bit of a hike. Well, literally a boat.

La Maddalena Archipelago is one of the most beautiful places in Sardinia and left me awestruck the entire few hours we sailed around it. La Maddalena is a small town on the biggest island of the archipelago where you can stay the night.

The town itself is small but with easy options for island hopping, it's a really great place to stay if you have the time to make the extra effort to get here. To get to the town, you'll have to take a ferry from Palau, a small town north of Olbia.

I'll talk more about the archipelago below but just know it's possible to book a boat trip that'll take you around for the day but by staying the night, you'll have more time to enjoy the islands before the day trip crowds arrive.

📍Looking for a great place to stay in or around La Maddalena? I recommend:

• Budget Stay: La Casa di Dario: While the rooms are relatively simple, it's a great price point to stay in the center of the old town.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Appartamento La Terrazza: Also in the center of town, swap a room for an entire apartment with a large outdoor terrace.
• Luxury Stay: Villa Itaca: This 3-bedroom villa is remote and nestled right on the rocky coastline. It offers a swimming pool and plenty of outdoor space.

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The Interior of the Island

I was shocked just how mountainous Sardinia was when we arrived. I had heard it was rocky but I overestimated just how rugged the center of the island would be.

Although most people visit Sardinia for the beaches, the island also is home to a number of fantastic hiking trails and farmstays in the mountains. While you'll likely want to spend some of your trip by the beach, if you have extra time, I recommend spending a night or two in the center of the island, up in the mountains, to really understand how beautifully diverse Sardinia is.

There aren't any big cities in the center of the island but there are a number of small towns. This is the best area to visit if you're looking to get off the beaten path and to enjoy a truly remote and relaxing trip.

📍Looking for a great place to stay in the interior of the island? I recommend:

• Budget Stay: Bisos: Stay in the heart of the small town, Paulilatino, located in almost the exact middle of Sardinia. The bed and breakfast is quaint, cozy, and a great retreat.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Agriturismo Guthiddai: Below I'll talk more about agriturismos but if you're motivated by food, you'll love staying here at the foot of Gennargentu National Park.
• Luxury Stay: Palazzo Santa Caterina: This historic property in Dorgali is stunning and very well-maintained for a picture-perfect stay.

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How Many Days to Stay

How many days you'll want in Sardinia will depend greatly on what you want to see and do while on the island. Most people, myself included, underestimate just how big Sardinia is and how long it takes to get from one end to the other.

For reference, driving from Olbia to Cagliari takes 3 hours by car but if you wanted to add a stop on the eastern coast, the drive will then take 5 hours.

If you only have 2-3 nights in Sardinia, I highly recommend you pick one area nearish an airport and hang around there. There are seriously so many stunning beaches that you won't have to go far to find an incredible one.

If you have around 1 week, you can split your time between 2 regions. With 10 days or more, you can easily explore 3 regions of the island.

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Transportation

Unlike the rest of Italy where public transport is pretty great, in Sardinia it isn't quite as reliable and well-connected.

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Arriving to the Island

Getting to the island is easy though. With multiple airports to choose from, it's not too hard to find a flight to Sardinia, especially if you're coming from Italy or a nearby country.

Another way to get to Sardinia is by ferry. Most ferries to Sardinia come from the western coast of mainland Italy from cities like Naples, Livorno, Civitavecchia, or Palermo on Grimaldi Lines.

It's of course also possible to arrive in Sardinia by private yacht or sailboat.

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Getting Around

Once on the island, the easiest way to get around is by rental car. Personally, I prefer taking trains and buses but in some situations, like in the Dolomites, it's not possible unless going from town to town.

You won't be able to get to the best beaches, sites, or even most hotels if you decide to rely on public transport to get you around.

To rent a car, you have plenty of options for companies. Most offices are either at the airport or offer a free shuttle from the airport to their office. You can get a variety of car sizes, makes, and models based on how large your group is and how much space you need.

Just know that if you decide to pick up the car at one airport and drop it off at another, the price might be significantly higher, but it isn't impossible to do.

Be careful to triple check your car for any damage before picking it up and after dropping it off. Take pictures and even a video. We didn't have any issues with our rental car but a friend was charged for a hit under his car that he's pretty sure he didn't do - so don't be embarrassed to check all sides of your vehicle before driving away.

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Best Beaches in Sardinia

Most of us, myself included, are drawn to Sardinia's stunning beaches and really, they're just as good in person as they look online. The biggest issue I had was narrowing down which beaches to visit because we didn't have the time (or energy) to see them all.

I was really concerned about where to base ourselves to see the "best beaches" on the island. That worry wasn't necessary. Although Costa Smeralda deserves the hype, the rest of the island is full of stunning beaches and plenty that are wild and more secluded. You really can't go wrong with which beach to visit, unless it's peak season and you go to the most popular ones when you're looking for something quiet.

While I know it can be tempting to hop from one beach to another, I highly recommend you give yourself enough time to actually enjoy the one you choose to see.

With that in mind, these are the best beaches in Sardinia that are seriously jaw-dropping, from north to south:

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La Maddalena Archipelago

While not one single beach but 100s of them, I've lumped them all together because really, they're too beautiful to single just one out. I'll talk more about this below but the best way to see the beaches here is on a boat trip.

Porto Taverna

This beach was top of my list thanks to Tavolara Island in the distance. It didn't disappoint. If you visit here, be sure to give yourself some time to walk across the boardwalk over the inlet. This beach is close to Olbia.

Cala Banana Beach

Say what you want but yes, we did choose this one blindly thanks to the beach's name. This beach also has a view of Tavolara Island but this side of the island isn't as dramatic as what you'll get at the beach above. This beach is smaller and more protected. This beach is close to Olbia.

Brandinchi Beach

This is another beach on the northeastern side of the island that is also protected by the land, making it a super family-friendly spot for swimming. Right next to this beach is Lu Impostu and really, if you make it to one, you might as well check out the other.

Cala Luna

This is one of the most famous beaches in Sardinia. This is certainly one of the more dramatic beaches on the island thanks to its limestone cliffs and caves. It's possible to get here by hiking or by boat. If you hike, try to time your arrival before the boats so you can have some serenity before the crowds come.

Su Giudeu Beach

Just outside of Cagliari and near the small town Chia, this beach has one of the best sandy beaches on the island. While many of the beaches are narrow, the sand is vast here giving you more space on a summer day.

Tuerredda

This beach is located just on the other side of the point from Su Giudeu and is one of the best beaches to visit if you're staying in the southwest of the island. Just know it's far from a hidden gem and can get really crowded in the summer.

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Things You Can't Miss in Sardinia

I think it's obvious by now that you should spend plenty of time enjoying the white sand beaches and bright turquoise waters that surround the island. Other than the beaches though, there are a few other things you'll want to do while visiting Sardinia:

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Take a Boat Trip

I also worried about which boat trip to take because, just as I felt with the beaches, I was worried I'd "miss out." We ended up on a small catamaran in La Maddalena Archipelago and while I can't compare it to other boat trips in the area, I can say with confidence that it was fantastic.

We booked directly with La Dolce Vita Sardinia Catamaran and had a really fantastic day swimming, eating, drinking, and playing in the water.

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Enjoy Local Food at an Agriturismo

Agriturismo is one of my favorite concepts in Italy and one I highly recommend you enjoy while in the country. They don't really have a direct translation that works because "agricultural tourism" doesn't quite cut it.

Instead, think of them as farm-to-table meets a bed and breakfast except all of the food they serve comes directly from their farm.

You can stay the night at an agriturismo but oftentimes you can also just go for a meal. Most of these are found in the hills or mountains of the island and are, as you might guess, in secluded parts to make room for their farm and usually, small wine production.

Sardinian wine, also called mirto, is a sweet liqueur often enjoyed as a digestive after a meal.

If you want a taste of local culture and fresh food, I highly recommend you eat at least one meal at an agriturismo. Just come hungry - they tend to offer set menus and feed you loads here!

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Take a Tour of Porto Flavia

Located on the southwest of the island, Porto Flavia is a coastal port built directly in the cliffs. Alongside just seeing it from the water, there's also a big cave and tunnel system that you can explore on guided tours. Most tours are from Cagliari.

Browse Porto Flavia tours to find the best option for your schedule.

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Go Hiking

Although I hardly ever miss a hike in a new place, we didn't have the time to hit the trails in Sardinia, opting for the catamaran tour instead. There are a number of great hiking trails to hop on though, some short and sweet around the beaches and others testing your limits in the mountains.

I recommend using AllTrails to scout the best hiking trails in Sardinia.

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Go Back in Time at the Archeological Sites

There are a number of different ancient sites you can visit while in Sardinia, depending on which area of the island you're staying in and your exact interests. These are the top sites I suggest:

• The Roman City of Nora: This archeological site is south of Cagliari, just outside of Pula. You can visit on your own but to get a better understanding of the area, I recommend a guide.
• The Nuraghes: These are towers found at various sites built by the Nuragic people who lived on the island around 1,500 BC. It's still unclear what these towers were used for but there are a number of them still present on the island today.
• Asinara Island: This isn't that old but is still an ideal place for history buffs. This uninhabited island off the northwestern coast is home to a prison once used for captured soldiers in WW2 and later criminals until it closed. It's now a national park and a super contradictory place to spend the day.

You can either visit these sites on your own, or take advantage of one of the many culture and history tours on Sardinia.

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Enjoy Your Vacation to Sardinia

With the help of this Sardinia travel guide, I think you're ready to plan an epic getaway to this magical island. With beautiful beaches, a dramatic interior, and a vast history, you'll be able to strike the perfect balance between relaxation and entertainment on your trip.

If you have the time, I suggest staying 7-10 days to be able to traverse through a few different regions and get the best feel for the island but if you have a limited time, choose 1 region to really get to know instead of spreading yourself too thin.

Trust me, no matter where in Sardinia you end up visiting, you're in for an incredible vacation!