The Perfect Weekend in Bologna: 3-Day Travel Guide

Day 1

Welcome to Bologna! While the area right around the train station doesn't quite offer a picture-perfect benvenuti, hang tight.

Once you arrive, head straight to your hotel or apartment rental to drop your bags off. Even if you can't check in yet, most places are more than willing to hold your bags for you. Trust me, you'll enjoy exploring far more empty handed.

Don't know where to stay? At the bottom of this article I cover the best hotels in Bologna.

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Roam Around the City Center

Compared to other major cities in Italy like Rome, Florence, or Venice, Bologna is far more rough around the edges. Tourism hasn't quite taken off yet here like it has for those others but you should see that as a pro not a con.

Even if you visit Bologna in the summer like I did, you won't experience the bustling crowds and large tour groups. Sure, it's no ghost town but you will have far more breathing room comparatively.

That being said, it's under a constant state of construction, there's loads of graffiti, and although I found it really charming, I can see why it wouldn't be everyone's cup of tea. It's also the most liberal city in Italy so you'll find plenty of street art and posters fighting for social rights.

But, get on your walking shoes and start to explore. Trust me, you're going to want to do a lot of walking in Bologna to build up your appetite for the real reason you're here...to eat!

While you roam around the city, be sure to check out:

• Piazza Maggiore: This is the main plaza in the city and an ideal starting point. From here take a peak in Basilica di San Petronio (it's free!) and see the Neptune Fountain. For a kinky view, check out the statue from the base of the library's steps.
• Palazzo Re Enzo: Head inside the palace to the walkway for something super quirky. Here, you can stand in a corner of the walkway and chat with a friend at the opposite corner. It actually works so well that back in the day, priests used it for confessions for those too contagious to get near.
• Piazza Santo Stefano: This plaza is smaller and quieter, until the evening time when it becomes a popular spot for young people to drink and spend time with their friends. We didn't go inside Basilica di Santo Stefano or the other surrounding churches but were told by Bologna locals they're really nice.
• Via S. Felice: Want to go shopping in Bologna but only to locally owned stores? This street is full of great shops, just beware that while they aren't as expensive as luxury brands, they aren't cheap either.
• Galleria Cavour: While not my style, if you do want to shop (or even just window shop) luxury brands, this is the place to go.
• Archiginnasio Municipal Library: This building is home to the oldest university. It's now a public library and anatomical theater. To walk in and take a look it's completely free and well worth it with the old frescoes highlighting the coat of arms from old students from around the world.
• Via degli Orefici, Via Pescherie Vecchie, Via Clavature: These are 3 small streets that run parallel to one another, hence why I put them together. These are the most picturesque streets in Bologna with plenty of bars, restaurants, and traditional food stores to wander between.

Fun Fact: You'll probably notice pretty quickly that everything in the city center is either brick or painted varying shades of reds or oranges. That's actually because the fourth Pope of the Catholic Church was a key player in the development of the city and mandated that everything be built from brick or at least look that way.

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Enjoy Your 1st Aperitivo (of Many)

If this is your first trip to Italy, the aperitivo culture is something you won't want to miss out on (unless you don't like snacks or drinking).

Aperitivo literally means "to open" but is used to talk about the before-meal drink and oftentimes small bites used "to open" your appetite for dinner. Think happy hour on a national scale.

If you're not super hungry for dinner, head out for an aperitivo that also offers tagliere, or charcuterie boards of meats and cheeses. But, if you simply want to enjoy some fresh air and great people watching, opt for just a pre-meal drink instead.

A few of the best places to go in Bologna for an aperitivo are:

• Zerocinquantino: This is a great place to go for traditional meats and cheeses in Bologna. I'm looking at you mortadella and squacquerone. The icing on top of the cake is their homemade bread. Their lambrusco with peach cocktail is super refreshing when it's warm out.
• Tamburini: Tamburini is more than a place for a good drink but also a deli and local food shop. They really offer a little bit of everything so if you're in the mood to taste test or have a good spot to people watch while you sip your spritz, this is a great choice.
• La Prosciutteria: This literally translates to something like "the prosciutto place" so you know what to get when coming here. It's actually a chain from Tuscany but given the proximity to Parma, you know the meats are top-notch here. I recommend a platter of a variety of meats and cheese to enjoy a good sampling.
• Camera A Sud: For something a little trendier, head to this wine bar. You'll know you're in the right place when you get surrounded by quirky street art and even quirkier people.

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Save Room for Dinner

Italians love eating a late dinner (unless you're from Spain or Argentina, then you might feel it's early here). Many restaurants will open for dinner around 7:30pm but it's not uncommon for places to only accept reservations from 9pm onwards.

I've gone into detail below about the foods you won't want to miss while in Bologna but for now, go ahead and make a reservation at one of these local restaurants. Just to be clear, these aren't the only delicious restaurants in Bologna by a long shot - these are just restaurants that have been tried and tested by us and really stood out among the crowd.

Don't miss out on:

• Sfoglia Rina: I mention this below as a good spot to get lunch but in case you miss it, I wanted to make sure you saw it. This restaurant is best enjoyed as take away as the line can get really long. Their tagliatelle al ragu made me want to cry it's so good.
• Osteria Al 15: Friends of ours recommended that we eat here and I'm so glad we did. My husband's favorite food is lasagna but as he said, this one ruined all others it was so good. Try that and their gramigna for a filling yet affordable meal.
• Bottega Portici: There are 2 locations in town, the one linked is the one we ate at. It was a great location sitting outside under the portico. If you're interested in trying cotoletta alla bolognese, this is a great place to do so.
• Atipico Osteria: We were underwhelmed by their other pasta dishes but their fried tortellini appetizer and tortellini en brodo was so so good.
• Bella Vita: Known for their small plates, we actually ate full meals here sitting outside. The meals are simple yet very tasty.

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Day 2

Now that you have a lay of the land and have roamed through the city center, it's time to get to know Bologna a little bit better.

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Go on a Walking Tour

Start the day off with a walking tour. I personally love the free walking tours that most big cities offer - just be sure to tip your guide at the end!

The free walking tour we did in Bologna was fantastic. We walked around with a small group of less than 10 people for around 2 hours learning a bit of the history, the people who shaped the city, and all about the delicious food that have made Bologna and Emilia Romagna in general famous.

Come ready to listen and ask questions and I guarantee you'll walk away with a lot more love for Bologna.

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Have a Low-Key Lunch

There are so many great restaurants in Bologna it can be hard to choose one. But, today, instead of doing the obvious, plan a lunch unlike any other.

One of our favorite meals we had in Bologna was at Sfoglia Rina but if you go around lunchtime you'll find a line wrapping around the building. Instead of waiting for a table, cut the cue and head right inside to order your meal to go. If you're having trouble deciding what to order I highly recommend the tagliatelle al ragu and tortelloni burro e salvia.

Once you get your to-go box, head around the corner to Osteria del Sole. This wine bar dates back to the 15th century and lets you bring your own food. Order a glass or bottle of local wine (you can't go wrong with Pignoletto or Lambrusco) and enjoy this makeshift picnic, Bologna style.

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Followed By Gelato

Gelato is so good in Bologna that the Gelato University is based here. That means students from around Italy and the rest of the world come to Bologna to learn how to make the very best.

I've eaten my fair share of gelato since moving to Italy and never have I had such a mind altering experience than my first gelato in Bologna. Trust me, you've been warned. Gelato as you know it might be ruined after indulging here.

There's over 100 gelaterias in Bologna so you won't have to look far to find a good one but if you're searching for a recommendation, these have all been tried and tested:

• Gelateria Gianni: Personally, this was my favorite gelato in Bologna, the gelato that may have ruined all future gelatos for me. I ordered a scoop of the "Samurai" (3 cheese, weird but go with it) and coffee.
• Cremeria la Vecchia Stalla: The salted pistachio, "Il Divino," was one of the strangest gelato flavors I've ever tried, and that's coming from me eating 3 cheeses the day before. It's actually very salty which is confusing yet somehow really delicious.
• Cremeria Cavour: I tried their signature flavor, "Il Cavour," which tasted just like Key lime pie. Super zesty yet creamy. While Gianni remained my #1 this ice cream was a super close second and one I actually wish I could have right now while writing this.

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Get a Bird's Eye View of the City

Now that you're sufficiently full, it's time to walk some more to build up your appetite again. I told you, you came to Bologna to eat!

There are a lot of different places to get an overhead view of Bologna but unfortunately the highest view point, Torre degli Asinelli (or Asinelli Tower), is currently closed. This one and its neighboring tower, Torre Garisenda, are both under construction. Judging by the lean of Garisenda, you'll quickly understand why. Asinelli Tower is meant to be reopened around 2026 but time will tell.

So, in the meantime, you'll have to choose another option.

A few top choices for great views while we wait for the two towers to open back up are:

• Torre dell'Orologio (Clock Tower): The clock tower is right in Piazza Maggiore (the main plaza). With your entrance ticket you can see Bologna from the two terraces, see how the clock works, and go to their museum, the Municipal Art Collection.
• Belvedere di San Michele in Bosco: This is the viewpoint we chose because we were interested in taking a bit of a walk. From here you can only see the side facing Bologna but it does offer really nice city views. Bus 30 makes getting there or back easy.

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Indulge in Dinner

I know you might be full but I also know that if you're feeling like we were at this point, you'll be ready for another meal simply because your time in Bologna is coming to an end.

Choose another restaurant and another local food recommendation to go out with a bang!

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Day 3

Depending on how much time you have today in Bologna, you can edit these suggestions but if you at least have until lunchtime, here's how you can spend your last few hours in Bologna.

Just be sure to ask your hotel or rental if they can hold onto your bag so you don't have to cart it around with you.

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Visit a Museum

After learning more of the history of Bologna yesterday during your tour, it's time to dive deeper into the subject that was most interesting to you.

To me, the most interesting fact is that Bologna is home to the oldest university in the Western world. Other than visiting that building, we didn't go to any museums but that doesn't mean you shouldn't skip out, unless you're like us and prefer to.

Regardless of which museum you choose to visit, a few of the most popular are:

• MAMbo (Modern Art Museum in Bologna): This is known as the most visited museum in Bologna and if you're an art lover, you won't want to miss it.
• Pinacoteca Nazionale (The National Picture Gallery): This museum is best for those looking for famous paintings and to learn more about Italian culture and past through the eyes of its most prized painters.
• Ferrari Museum & Enzo Ferrari Museum: Are you a fan of fast cars? These two museums are in Maranello and Modena, respectively, but give you the chance to not just understand the past, present, and future of this luxury brand but you can also take a spin on the track to see first hand just how quickly they can zip around.

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Squeeze in 1 Last Lunch

If you have time before your train or flight out of the city, why not squeeze in one last lunch? Use this as a time to try any of the traditional foods you hadn't yet tried or to go back to the restaurant that you enjoyed the most on your trip.

Don't have time for a full meal? Visit the Mò Mortadella Lab for a quick sandwich.

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Bologna Travel Tips

While you now know how to spend 3 wonderful days in Bologna, your trip will be that much better when taking into account a few more helpful travel tips.

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Where to Stay in Bologna

If you look at Bologna on a map, you'll see there's a highway that circles the city center. I recommend staying anywhere inside that circle so you can get around on foot instead of having to rely on public transportation (although the public transportation is easy to use - more on that below!).

📍A few of my top recommendations for places to stay in Bologna are:

• Budget Option: Casa Petronio Apartments: They offer a variety of apartments with 2-bedrooms, 1-bedrooms, or a studio to choose from. A bike rental and coffee shop is conveniently located in the same building.
• Mid-Tier Option: Central City Rooms m09: This is where we stayed in Bologna and we really enjoyed it. It's pet-friendly so we could bring our pets with us and it's really close to the train station which made coming and going easy.
• Luxury Option: Grand Hotel Majestic gia' Baglioni: For a taste of luxury and to be just steps from Piazza Maggiore, you'll love your stay at this high-end hotel where you'll feel as if you became a queen in the 1800s.

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Foods You Can't Miss

I've made it clear: you go to Bologna to eat. But what exactly should you be eating? That's the real question.

If you've never visited Italy before, this might come as a surprise but here, the food to try really depends on where you are. Want great pizza? Go to Naples. For carbonara? Head to Rome. Sure you can find those foods throughout Italy but it won't be the best. To really get the hype of Italian cuisine, you need to eat the local delicacies for that region.

So, what to eat in Bologna? Here's what you need to try:

• Tagliatelle al ragù: This is what the world knows as Bolognese sauce but here it's called ragu. Forget about spaghetti noodles, too, here the wider and flatter tagliatelle noodles rule.
• Lasagna: Did you know the original lasagna recipe has green noodles (dyed naturally from the spinach)? We didn't either until arriving. They also don't use mozzarella cheese like most of us are accustomed to. While these swaps might sound strange, the final product is way better in Bologna!
• Mortadella: Americans think they know mortadella as bologna (the meat, not the city) but we're far off. Mortadella is fresher, more delicate, and far more flavorful than you're expecting. I've eaten a lot of cured meats since moving to Italy but personally, mortadella is my favorite.
• Gramigna alla salsiccia: This is a pasta that I had never heard of until arriving in Bologna and will forever be scouting menus here on out for. I don't want to offend any Italians reading this but to non-Italians, the noodle is like a more delicate macaroni served with minced sausage.
• Tortellini en brodo: Most of us know the stuffed pasta tortellini but did you know traditionally tortellini is eaten in a light broth (brodo)? Tortellini here is stuffed with minced mortadella and ricotta cheese and is so so flavorful that I could eat the noodles completely plain and be happy.
• Tortelloni: Think of these like giant tortellini (-oni means big, -ini means small in Italian). Instead of being served in broth, tortelloni is typically stuffed with just ricotta and spinach and served with melted butter and sage. It's possible to find varieties though.
• Balanzoni: Simply put, balanzoni are green (thanks to the spinach) tortelloni. It's also usually served with a butter and sage sauce.
• Cotoletta alla Bolognese: This dish translates to "Bolognese cutlet." It's a fried veal cutlet served with prosciutto and creamy cheese sauce on top. It's a large and heavy plate but worth the try, especially if you're hungry or have someone to share it with.
• Squacquerone: This is a type of cheese that's super light, soft, and creamy. It tastes similar to a softer mozzarella. It's usually served here on platters with mortadella and bread.
• Tigelle: These round, stamped breads are found all over Bologna. It's common to find them used for street food style sandwiches. I love bread but these didn't do too much for me personally.
• Crescentine: This fried bread on the other hand certainly did. You'll find this bread all over but it's especially common as an appetizer or with your meat and cheese board.
• Prosciutto (Parma Ham): Technically not from Bologna but still the same region, prosciutto, or Parma Ham, is a cured meat from neighboring Parma. If you're going to Parma, eat up there but if not, try it in Bologna as you're still very close to the source.
• Parmigiano Reggiano cheese: Same with Parmigiano Reggiano, this cheese is from Parma as well. While most of us know Parmesan cheese, the real thing is Parmigiano Reggiano and is one of the best hard cheeses out there.
• Balsamic vinegar: Balsamic vinegar originates in neighboring Modena but given the proximity most providers sell their goods in Bologna, too. If you're going to Modena, save it for there, but if you don't, be sure to try the real stuff. The older it is, the thicker and sweeter.

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Best Time to Visit

Bologna is centrally located in the country, giving it 4 real seasons, although it doesn't snow every year like it once did. We visited Bologna in late June and actually needed a light jacket most days, so while it typically gets 4 seasons, the weather can be a bit unpredictable.

The great thing about Bologna not being very touristic means that any time is a good time to visit the city. You won't face massive crowds in the summer and in the winter not everything closes down like it does in touristic areas.

Although dining outside is certainly wonderful, since you're in Bologna to eat, you can really do that inside or out.

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Getting Around the City

Bologna, like many other Italian cities, is pretty easy to get around.

For starters, Bologna is home to porticos, the rooflike structure over walkaways that extend from buildings. That means much of the city is covered so you can easily walk around even on rainy days.

But, if you don't want to walk, you have the option to take the public bus, use a bike rental, or grab a taxi. Just note that apps like Uber don't work in Italy so you'll have to hail a taxi old school style.

To get around with the bus, you can use Google Maps to see the schedule and find the stops. We found it pretty reliable. You can tap your card or phone to pay for the bus ticket when you get on or pay with coins. Just know that to get off a stop, you'll need to press the "stop" button on the bus, otherwise it might not stop.

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Best Day Trips

If you're in Bologna for just 3 days, I don't recommend you take any day trips. Instead, I recommend enjoying the city itself. But, if you'll be in town for longer, there's plenty more to see and do in the Emilia Romagna region and beyond.

While you can certainly branch to Florence or Venice for a day trip from Bologna, I suggest seeing more of the region instead of zooming past it.

A few of the top day trips from Bologna within Emilia Romanga are:

• Modena: 25 minutes by train: Most people go on a day trip to Modena to try balsamic vinegar or to visit the Ferrari museum and race track.
• Ferrera: 30 minutes by train: Ferrera is a charming UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers a great chance to see historical houses, wander windy alleyways, and enjoy the beauty and charm of small town Italy.
• Parma: 1 hour by train: If you're seeking out Parmigiano Reggiano cheese or to try prosciutto from the source, Parma is an easy day trip option.
• Rimini: 1 hour by train: If you visit Bologna in the summer or simply want to spend a day on the water, the coastal town of Rimini is a great choice.

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How Will You Spend Your Weekend in Bologna?

As you can tell, I really fell in love with Bologna. I've heard from so many that they either love Bologna or hate it. I don't think that's the city's fault but more the type of traveler you are and the experience you're seeking.

Although it wouldn't be my top recommendation for those seeking a luxury vacation with elegant architecture, quiet alleyways, and high-end activities, I would recommend it for a foodie or those that are looking to get off the beaten path in Italy.

Sure it's grittier but it's vibrant and lacks the tourist drive of both Florence and Rome. Plus, the meals you eat in Bologna are ones I'm sure you'll remember.